Best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis, Around you, in magazines, on the web, and elsewhere, there is a lot of talk about the product itself, its qualities, its technology, its weight, etc. The thing is, we often forget the essential which is first to talk about your foot! Yes anyway, it is he who will go there in this shoe casually!
What shoes are best for extensor tendonitis?
Your foot, crazy thing, it is unique! No, for real: it looks nothing like the neighbors. best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis, Sometimes the left doesn’t even look like the right to say. And, just that, it’s already huge to target how complex the question of choosing a hiking shoe is already on paper, beyond your level of practice. One reason why the very notion of product elected “shoe of the year” in the press makes my hair stand on end! Because the boyfriend is in this model in question, nothing says that it will be the same for you. Explanations best running shoes for girls.
Can I walk with extensor tendonitis?
One of the first fundamentals to understand about the foot is that it is not limited to size. If this, calculated in relation to the length of the foot, remains the basic index for choosing your shoe, it nevertheless remains to be compared with a few others: the width of the foot, the volume of the foot, and, still less known, the arch of the foot. It is the combination of these factors and the adjustment to which one takes precedence over the others, which will direct you towards one brand over another. Why? Quite simply because no brand has the same footwear. This is called the footwear volume, in other words, the interior space of the shoe. And, believe me, each brand develops its own identity card in this area, some favoring wide feet, others thin feet see More Best over the knee boots.
From this – in short, after learning to look at your foot from another angle – you will learn to develop new sensations by putting your foot in a shoe. But in fact? What do we choose then? Damn, that’s kind of why you’re probably reading this article. We will therefore come back to the fitting phase later to tackle the bulk of the problem: which model for which practice? Facing the shoe wall of a department store or website, there is something to be quickly lost.
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best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis, And it is wanted! With some generalities in mind heard here and there – and not necessarily true for that matter – a certain idea of the budget you want to invest in and a personal affinity with this or that model, you will probably choose a few at random. Sometimes just because you find them pretty. Why not? But if you do that, you will already have to be able to decipher the shoe to understand the program. Also, before going into the more detailed side of the choice of shoe, we will draw up the typical identity card of a hiking shoe. The better you master it, the better your ability will be to make no mistakes in your choice and Don’t miss Read More Shoes.
The hiking shoe: decryption
The base of the shoe is the sole. Depending on the materials used, it will be more or less soft or hard. Its notching will also provide information on its grip capacity and grip. In this area, we talk a lot about Vibram, the benchmark manufacturer in terms of soles. If the presence of a Vibram tends to be reassuring, it is not an absolute guarantee of quality either More Article Honest Girl Fashion. Vibram indeed develops different models of soles, from basic to tailor-made. Not easy to differentiate them. More and more manufacturers are trying to develop their own soles – like Salomon with its Contagrip – or work with companies other than Vibram – like for example Adidas with Continental (yes, yes, that of tires!). Concretely, we can consider the issue of the sole program as that of the ski program:
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Narrow soles: this is still a very common form. It is usually accompanied by a rigid to moderately rigid nature, with fairly hard gums. In the same way that a narrow skate ski will prove to be lively and gripping when going from one edge to another, the narrow sole will aim for precision on difficult terrain. It will therefore not bend easily but will prove to be combative as soon as the terrain turns out to be tricky. It is intrinsically intended for technical and committed hiking.
Wide soles: the more the sole widens, the more it is generally softer. As a result, walking becomes comfortable again on most paths but, above all, stability is improved. The width of the sole is indeed more able to follow the ground. On the other hand, this kind of sole will be much less comfortable in technical passages. Like a freeride ski, great in powder snow but no bends on the piste.
Heel shape: a rounded and sometimes slightly raised heel will promote the natural rolling movement of the foot. Its presence indicates that the shoe favors the comfort of walking before technicality in difficult passages. A sign that she should be able to stick to long trail hikes or treks.
The notching: the thickness and distribution of the notch can also give you clues about the program of the shoe. Beware of too thick soles which, by moving you away from the ground, reduce the precision of the foot touch. You have to be able to stay in contact with the field to a minimum to ensure good support and sure footing. The wide soles generally have fairly simple notches because their width alone takes the management of stability. The most complex notches immediately betray the sporty nature of a shoe that aims for precision in technical passages. The small “plots” will suit hikers often moving on technical terrain, while the “grooves” will be more suitable for more traditional hikers on marked trails.
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The erasers: a few dozen different materials are used to design a sole. Depending on whether you pull on one lever rather than another, you will obtain more or less soft gums. The soft gums equip shoes whose program will suit dynamic walkers looking for stability. The flexibility, by default, will have repercussions on the precision and rigidity of the shoe.
Best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis, They are also found on more beginner shoes or for occasional walkers, in order to be able to offer an optimal quality/price ratio. In any case, the wear of this type of sole will be the fastest. Hard compounds, on the other hand, are found on shoes with mid or high shanks for walkers looking for precision first. We, therefore, lose more or less on the dynamic grip but we gain in rigidity and support. The wear of the sole will be slower.
My advice: test the nature of the sole yourself. Grip the shoe from below, one side under the front, the other under the heel, and try to fold it. Its overall ability to twist will tell you about the stiffness index. High, this one will be aimed at technical walkers, looking for a shoe that does not flinch in difficult passages. Low it will correspond more to beginner walkers evolving on non-mountainous and easy grounds or to sport walkers looking for a playful and catchy shoe to evolve quickly. An average stiffness will obviously be very versatile and will suffice to guarantee sufficient stability and support without sacrificing flexibility.
It is the intermediate element between the sole and the body of the shoe itself. It is a fundamental part that must go in the direction of the sole in terms of longitudinal torsion while adding two
factors: the cushioning – its variable thickness will allow absorbing a majority of the shocks – and, above all, the lateral stability. This last point is essential because of a rigid midsole – but not too much! – will allow a mid shoe, or even a low one, to acquire greater stability than its size suggests. A good omen for your sporting and even technical hikes. For the practitioner, this, therefore, means that, in the field,
My advice: test the lateral torsion of the shoe yourself. Grasp it with one hand against the front and the other behind the wheel and perform an opposite twist to try to deform it. The harder you struggle to twist it, the better the guarantee of good stability. Rigidity will be of interest to two
categories of riders: either the experienced walker looking for a reliable, responsive, and dynamic shoe that will not slip away in the long term or the walker who needs to be reassured on technical terrain. or mountainous. Conversely, the beginner and/or occasional walker, evolving elsewhere than in the mountain, will avoid the too rigid.
It’s the element we think we know best because we hear salespeople and magazines talking to us all the time from low, high, and now mid – hear in between. In the middle of all this, the rods, whatever their formats, use different manufacturing materials which greatly influence their program: leather, nubuck, mesh, synthetic, sometimes a combination of these elements … Once again, it will be necessary to analyze the shoe. Let’s start with the size.
The high stem: the choice of a high upper is essentially a desire to maintain. We entrust the shoe with the solution to all the problems that we will encounter on the route. And we also protect the ankle which, stuck, should not be able to discard in the event of a bad step. A seasoned walker will be able to choose a high stiff rod for technical mountain hikes or long treks in mountainous areas – although the latter choice often sacrifices long-term comfort. But it is above all the less expert walker who will choose a high rod to ensure an even clumsy step on technical trails. Let’s not forget that the tall rod is heavy and hot. If you’re the quiet walker type, this should be fine for you. If, on the other hand, you are more of the dynamic type,
The low rod: a few years back, walking with anything other than tall stems was inconceivable. The hiker in the low rod – with his ankle in the open air – was regarded as unconscious. Today, with the proliferation of outdoor practices – especially trail running – wearing a low upper when hiking no longer surprises anyone. But who is it for then? Here, there are mainly two possibilities: on the one hand, the inexpensive, rather soft, low stems, intended for short hikes – or even only for mowing the garden for the most discount – will satisfy the occasional walker who will wear them out in the countryside, in the forest and on easy routes with little elevation.
best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis. On the other, the more expensive and more technical lower rods, much more rigid for some, and oriented towards trail or fast-hiking, which will delight those for whom hiking rhymes with off-trail or who like to walk as much as gallop, on the trail or the rock. And, if you’re in the middle and starting to gain some confidence in your stride, feel free to test a low stem that’s a bit sporty and stable on easy hikes. You could quickly get a taste for it and want to take it on more technical courses! Its
advantage: it is light and fresh. Disadvantage: little or no waterproofing and rapid wear. You could quickly get a taste for it and want to take it on more technical courses! Its advantage: it is light and fresh. Disadvantage: little or no waterproofing and rapid wear. You could quickly get a taste for it and want to take it on more technical courses! Its advantage: it is light and fresh. Disadvantage: little or no waterproofing and rapid wear.
The mid rod: manufacturers quickly understood. There was a market to be seized between the high and the low. So they launched the mid and, my faith, the idea is far from being bad. The perfect compromise between the other two formats, the mid rod tries to have the average on all tables without necessarily being able to claim perfection in all areas. Sufficiently high to guarantee a minimum of support and not too heavy to remain comfortable to wear anyway, it is the shoe to do everything par excellence. Watch out for the first prices which will generally not go further than the short hike. Crush it between your hands and test the lateral stiffness of its midsole (see above)to find out what is in her stomach. A good mid, a bit stiff but not too much, will be an ideal companion for itinerant hikes where every gram counts. And, unlike the low rod, manufacturers offer a few models with a waterproof base. In short, it’s a bit of a shoe for everything.
4.Leather or synthetic?
Originally, leather was the prerogative of hiking boots. In the meantime, engineers have embarked on a race to reduce weight but also cost, while hacking Dr. Frankenstein way to experiment with new assemblies of materials. If today we can still recognize leather for its robustness and its quite natural impermeability, we must recognize that, when it comes to weight, it does not always look great! If, besides the traditional side of this noble and historic material, you prefer to scratch a few grams for more comfort – and yes, leather is a bit hard to bend too – and more velocity, then you will turn to these materials full more synthetic, even downright threaded which will give you the impression of being more in a slipper than in an uncomfortable shell. Well,
But still, there is no photo, we still feel, generally, naturally better in a mixed shoe, mixing leather with synthetic. Remember that if you are going to walk in hot terrain or in regions or countries where the sun usually hits hard, your shoe will need to be able to provide you with a minimum of coolness. Conversely, as said above, if you favor 200% weight and freshness by starting with shoes with a light textile constitution, do not be surprised to wade through them as soon as a little rain or a heavy dew points to the tip of his nose. Once again, it is advisable to ask the question “what do I do most often” to start on one subject rather than another.
5.What about Gore-Tex?
Ha! The Gore-Tex! The stuff that everyone talks about without always knowing very well what it is. The magic of marketing eventually got the public that Gore-Tex = total waterproofing. Except that, in reality, it is not exactly that. A bit like in the example of Vibram, it must be said that the Gore-Tex membrane is not the same from one shoe to another. What is Gore-Tex already? It is a waterproof-breathable membrane. This means that it tries to prevent moisture from entering while at best evacuating that from the inside of the shoe to the outside. On paper, the concept is almost magical and the communicators use their catchy slogans like “now keep your feet dry”. This is not completely wrong, but neither is it completely true.
Gore-Tex membranes, therefore, are like cheeses in France: there are a few. Do not expect the same efficiency between a member on a technical shoe at nearly 300 euros and that of a model for less than 100 euros. Yes, I know, there is Gore-Tex on both of them but, yet, there is one of the two that will end up performing much worse. Already, for many, the membranes do not encompass the entire shoe. And then there are questions of layers. The more layers, the more waterproof and breathable. In the field, this translates into a risk of saturation of the membrane which will receive so much water that it will no longer manage to exchange correctly. And there, it is the drama, the humidity spreads insidiously and, against all expectations, the foot is wet. You may then want to go back to the seller to bark at him. But be aware that no Gore-Tex is infallible over time and that certain conditions can get the better of it. Also keep in mind that Gore-Tex does not like hot weather.
We continue to analyze our shoe in store with the “lacing” part. Lacing, casually, it’s super important and I have observed, in stores, that few people lace their shoes with care. Between too tight and not enough, you have to find the right balance. I will come back to this later. Beforehand, a look at the different styles of laces and a few accessories to locate, completed by explanations of use.
Classic lace: not much to add. These are the same ones you pull on your dress shoes or sneakers. Finally, no, it is not exactly the same materials, nor the same shapes. Some are more resistant to withstand being pulled over all the time. We will also favor round laces, which I find less subject to abrasion and wear. On the other hand, tighten them well because they are released more easily too.
Quick lacing: a system that we first saw appear on trail shoes. With him no more knots: we pull on the handle and it tightens the entire shoe before locking and hiding in a small flap integrated into the tongue, in general. Critics say it breaks too fast. For having used, sold, and rented it, I would be more nuanced. The system is not just a marketing stunt and has the big advantage of tightening the whole foot evenly. The feeling of support is very satisfactory. In short, it is a good system, especially for dynamic and athletic walkers. But it is only found, for the moment, on low stems, precisely oriented towards active walking and fast-hiking.
Self-locking hooks: on the mid and high rods, you will probably notice the presence of small metal or plastic returns. They make it possible to better lock the laces, which are crossed alternately over them, before tying the knot. The most interesting, on some models, is placed behind the kick and allows it to wedge it well.
7.The stone guard
More or less robust and hard, this accessory attached to the end of the shoe protects the toe box in the event of an impact, in particular, as its name suggests, against stones! Most of the time, the sole is partially pressed against it by rounding from the bottom to the top of the shoe. It is a highly recommendable accessory when you frequently practice the mountains or rough terrain.
The tongue is important because it is an element that contributes in particular to the comfort of the kick. Adjust it well by trying on the shoe. You will sometimes notice that it is attached to the body of the shoe by a system of bellows. Far from being a simple detail, it reduces the risk of water or stones slipping into the shoe against your will.
A hiking shoe, yes, but for what practice?
Good. The shoe, as an object, has – almost – no more secrets for you. So let’s put it aside and talk about you. Because, to find the right combination – and in addition to getting to know your foot better – you will also have to weigh your practice and your hiker profile and what you really expect from your shoe.
Choose your shoe according to the route
Depending on whether you are hiking in the countryside or in the mountains, in the forest or on the coast, on a generally well-marked trail or on a rough off-trail, with a lot or little difference in height, you will not choose the same shoe. Ideally, you would need several pairs depending on the hike you undertake, but that’s a bit of a stretch. Overall, we could end up with a synthesis of this type.
Flat or slightly uneven path, little uneven: the idea will be to progress without being hampered by your shoe. We, therefore, proscribe the “big” and the “tall” to prefer flexible low stems or even mids that are not too rigid. We refine with his level of practice.
Varied path with an average height difference, sometimes uneven: the most general scenario, which aims for maximum versatility from the shoe. Not too technical yet, but not really easy either. A profile that may even concern certain moderate mid-mountain routes. For this type of route we will take, according to his experience, either sufficiently rigid and beefy bass, or mids already solid to a little flexible, but able to provide good lateral stability and to follow the ground well. The “fat ones” are not yet the best fit, unless they have a little flexibility.
Varied path with a lot of vertical drops and often hilly: here we are in the mountain area, or something close to it. The foot needs a lot of stability to provide sure support – which will be provided either by the shoe or by the nature of your foot, provided by experience; but also grip. The choice of the low rod will be reserved for experienced walkers who are sure of their pace. We will start here more easily on a mid-upper, which we will choose more or less flexible according to its level of practice. For the most part, the high shank will be required to ensure in most situations.
Technical and off-trail itinerary: with the exception of a few chamois walkers able to evolve on this type of terrain in light shoes, this last case will directly require the choice of a high and robust rod capable of hanging in the screes without betraying the support of the hiker, to hook the rock for short sections of easy climbing, to slide down in the wet grass without risking ending up on the buttocks. Stability and security at the expense of weight. The soles will mostly be narrow and sophisticated.
The special case of alpine hiking: during certain hikes, it may be expected to encounter “obstacles” that will be closer to mountaineering than to hiking. I am thinking in particular of crossing certain snowfields which, depending on the season or the time of day, could prove to be formidable.
The special case of trekking: we have talked a lot about day hikes, but what about consecutive days of walking? In this very specific case where we put a lot of constraints on the foot for several days, there is only one criterion to favor: comfort. No way to have sore feet from the 2nd day. In short, personally, I am against the use of high rigid rods in trekking, except in the case where you plan to climb or crampon. Give your foot support and lateral stability, but don’t force a shoe that’s too hard to bend. In short, depending on the profile of the trek and your ease (see below)go either on a good low upper, ventilated and dynamic, or a mid or high model quite flexible but with a nice midsole and a medium thick sole. Make sure it is breathable enough with materials mixing mesh and leather or nubuck.
Choose a shoe based on your hiking experience
Depending on whether you are a beginner to hike, an occasional walker, or upset with the difference in height, the choice will continue to grow. We will try to go a little further with some typical profiles.
The descent, a yardstick for the level of the walker: I often take the example of the descent to judge a person’s ease. It’s the kind of ground where you can’t cheat. You have to know how to put your feet in the right place, where you need them, with dynamism and fluidity. The walker who goes down in short strides and with a smile on his face will not necessarily have the same shoes as the one who goes quietly and carefully. The less comfortable you are on the descent, the more you will take care to protect your ankle by increasing the height of the rod and lateral stability. Especially do not walk low if you are one of the people who go down in crab! And take sticks!
You are an absolute beginner (or almost): you want to discover hiking, what a good idea! There is a good chance that you will learn your first skills on easy routes with little difference in height. Aim for versatility, comfort, and a minimum of lateral support, without breaking your budget either. The frequency factor should complement your guidance when it comes to shoe selection. For me, a little supple and light mid seems the best choice. Even if the terrain is definitely very easy, a low rod that is not too rigid, rather easy to bend but which holds the footwell.
You know hiking but are not yet comfortable on technical terrain or downhill: basically, you go everywhere and at your own pace as long as it is the road. You can make outings of 5 to 6 hours with up to 1000 meters of elevation maximum if necessary. On the other hand, as soon as the path vanishes or the descent drags on or becomes stiff (or both) you are not at ease and it shows on your way of progressing. In this case, a good medium-stiff mid, not too heavy, with a wide sole, is the most versatile choice.
You hike at ease on all terrains and at a moderate pace: in short, no type of path scares you anymore. You usually practice the mountain and make hikes of more than 1000 vertical meters. Off-trail or technical terrain is familiar to you, but that’s not what you prefer. The descent, you manage: neither slow nor fast but with sure support. Here you can start to hesitate between a high not too rigid upper with a gripping and solid but not too narrow sole, and possibly a very dynamic mid or low upper, provided with big lateral stability. The idea is not to suffocate the foot too much and that it can still bend widely, for more comfort. The shoe will also be waterproof and equipped with a stone guard.
You are an experienced hiker, comfortable anywhere, trail, off-trail, rocky passage: you are more of the buff type, to gallop downhill and to seek delicate and difficult passages. You only design the hike if the route is spectacular and has adventurous sections in the store for you with lots of aerial passages, chains, and whatnot. In this extreme case where the playful, lively, and at the same time sure side of the shoe is a necessity, you forget the “big ones”! Your concentration and your confidence should allow you to get the most out of very, very stable, and catchy low rods, with a strong sporting character. Possibly a racy and very dynamic mid, hyper-stable laterally too. Of course, you can enjoy this kind of terrain by adopting a more measured pace. In this case, a sturdy high upper with a narrow sole will therefore be recommended. In all cases, waterproofing will be required
What does trying mean?
Above all, don’t be one of those people who just slip their foot into a pump without attaching it to immediately say: “I’m not well”! Serious misconduct ! A shoe is always tried closed. This is the basis. Otherwise the foot, not being wedged, goes without trying to understand come to stop at the end of the shoe, making you believe that the size is wrong. So tie these laces to allow the foot to move back slightly and find its rightful place in the shoe. By the way, about the lacing: keep in mind that it is the lacing that ends up adjusting the volume of the shoe to your foot. It’s the final touch of a good posture. It must therefore be treated, depending on the type of laces.
Simple lacing: this is the classic for basic support. If necessary, we will tighten the laces starting from the last crosspiece and gradually going up to the first one. We give a little sharp blow on each lace before starting its knot. The idea of lacing is to maintain and not to tighten: do you understand the shade? It is important!
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Lacing with self-locking hooks: self-locking, these are the small returns, sometimes metallic, sometimes plastic, that are found at the level of the high upper. They are counted in pairs, sometimes alone, sometimes in duo, and even in a trio for the tallest stems. Their mission: to improve the holding experience, in particular around the malleolus for self-locking devices set back at the level of the kick. It is more precise and above all, it holds up well. As with classic lacing, start at the bottom and go up before crossing the laces in turn behind the locks, giving each time a little sharp blow. We end with a beautiful knot, even a double knot.
Quick lacing: no more laces! A single handle that is pulled and then locked ensures the lacing of the shoe. Finished.
The sensations in the shoe: here you are with your foot in the shoe. You laced it up. And now? Do you have that little safety margin upfront? You have to come to brush against the tip of the shoe but especially not to touch it. If so, go up a half size and repeat. When this detail is settled, listen to your sensations in width and volume.
Even if they are not yet excellent, make the effort to keep the push-ups for a while so that the foot warms up a little inside and the sensations are refined. Walk, run, jump and wait 10-15 minutes for the first assessment. The basic idea is to feel held down but not tight. Shade. Support is the feeling of being fully enveloped by the shoe, without pain or hardpoints. The hardpoints are to be found on the width of the foot, the instep, and the heel. The latter must be almost locked: a small detachment of less than half a centimeter is tolerated, no more.
The analysis of the footwear volume is essential. This is where you will know if the model and, more broadly, the brand can match your foot shape. Follow your instincts and your first sensations. Don’t overthink it. If in doubt, try another model to be able to compare. the kick and the heel. The latter must be almost locked: a small detachment of less than half a centimeter is tolerated, no more. The analysis of the footwear volume is essential.
This is where you will know if the model and, more broadly, the brand can match your foot shape. Follow your instincts and your first sensations. Don’t overthink it. If in doubt, try another model to be able to compare. the kick and the heel. The latter must be almost locked: a small detachment of less than half a centimeter is tolerated, no more. The analysis of the footwear volume is essential. This is where you will know if the model and, more broadly, the brand can match your foot shape. Follow your instincts and your first sensations. Don’t overthink it. If in doubt, try another model to be able to compare.
The bag factor: one detail makes it difficult to try on a hiking shoe. It’s the backpack, which is missing most of the time. However, the weight of it will modify your support in the shoe, crushing the arch more. In other words, there may be a mismatch between the store and the field because of this. One solution may be to load a backpack at the weight you want to accompany your fitting (8 to 10 kilos are sufficient). The salespeople will probably make you look big, but whatever!
Should the price be a decisive factor in the choice of the shoe?
You’re awfully good in this shoe you’ve been trying on for twenty minutes now. But that is not the budget you were prepared to put in. The right question to ask yourself then is: what will be my frequency of use? If you’ve been out to walk a lot with your pump, don’t ask yourself the question again: cut the budget, you won’t regret it once on the trails. User comfort is priceless. If, on the other hand, it is a one-time use, you can perhaps go down a notch and go with the other model where you were also not bad and which suited you quite well too.
But best women’s walking shoes for extensor tendonitis, if you expect to wear your soles regularly on the trails after your purchase, do not go on a bad model or a model that suits you only moderately for a question of price: do not save on your comfort or your support. The sanction would come later in the hike. In this regard, avoid 1st price models like the plague for regular field use. Your foot would hate you! And then better to put the price once than to come back and buy a pump every year!
Socks: we often put the price in the shoe to completely neglect the sock. As if it wasn’t important. Fatal mistake! The sock contributes 100% to the comfort of the foot in the shoe! The points to take into account: its volume and its materials. Forget thick socks: they add volume to the shoe and breathe very, very badly. Choose technical socks, with studied and hybrid materials that will give you comfort and breathability to keep the feet dry and limit friction. Personally, I swear by socks from X-Socks, regardless of the model. These people are brilliant and perpetually ahead in their field. I’ve known them since the early 2000s and have never been disappointed. Not to mention that their products are incredibly resistant. All this deserves a full-fledged article.
The insole: make no mistake, the so-called sock liner inserted automatically inside the shoe is absolutely useless in terms of plantar support! It is just there to isolate the foot from the raw bottom of the pump, even it has some breathable functions to limit bad odors. Despite its side sometimes performed like your arch, it has no support function. You just need to extract it and easily fold it with one hand to be convinced. However, plantar support is an essential element of comfort: hollow foot or wide foot, many need this support so that their support and the dynamic movement of the footwork without pain and at full performance. And only a more rigid sole – preformed or custom – is able to provide you with this additional comfort.
How do you lace your shoes for extensor tendonitis?
If you are one of the people who always have pain under your feet (tension, tingling sensations in particular), it is very likely that the use of a specific sole is essential. Head to your usual dealer to ask him if, by chance, he practices boot fitting, in other words customizing the footwear. The essential brand for making sports soles: SIDAS. Here too, I am trying to give you a complete file on this theme which is close to my heart. The essential brand for making sports soles: SIDAS. Here too, I am trying to give you a complete file on this theme which is close to my heart. The essential brand for making sports soles: SIDAS. Here too, I am trying to give you a complete file on this theme which is close to my heart.
Which shoe for which terrain?
You must first choose a shoe that matches your feet. Finding the right fit is the first step. In general the brands are typified (Scarpa shoes wide, like Meindl, Lowa. La sportiva tries to fit “medium” but originally was typed “thin feet”, ditto Asolo. Kayland shoes quite thin with enough room on the in front, Merrell fits quite narrow at the heel and wider in front.
How to choose your mountain shoes?
The statistics of mountain accidents show that most of them take place in terrain not classified as “mountaineering”. These are losses of balance or falls on slopes of medium altitude where the exposure is sometimes more severe than it seems.
Mountain boots: the safety criteria for the selection of your future boots:
it is essential for the hold of the foot and the grip in mountainous terrain.
good support is the result of a shoe adapted to your feet, with a high upper, which supports the ankle joint and the lower shin.
The grip of the sole:
the grip of the sole depends on the quality of the material used and its notching. In general, soft gums have a better grip on the rock but they wear out quickly, which is penalizing because resoling is quite expensive and can be more or less well done. Hard erasers will be more resistant. We are therefore looking for the right compromise depending on the terrain practiced (softer for rock climbing, harder for the high road, and classic hiking) but we now find good soles, longevity, and satisfactory rock grip.
Protection / Impermeability:
Stone guards, side reinforcements, and the type of material used will ensure the longevity of the shoe and protect you against external elements (stone, rocks).
The essential constituents of your hiking boot:
- Self-locking hook: Usually located at the top or in the middle of the shoe. it makes it possible to block all or the lower part of the tightening for more precise adjustments and locking of the behavior of the shoe during the effort. In general, we tighten more on the descent than on the ascent to support the foot.
- Cushioning or midsole: Very important for absorbing shocks and therefore relieving the hiker’s joints and lower back. It is generally looser on the heel than at the front on technical models where the aim is to promote precision and the “feel” of the terrain. For long-distance journeys, rough terrain, and with a portage, the quality of the cushioning is essential.
- Stem: More or less rising. Perhaps in mesh, synthetic, split leather, nubuck, leather …
- Stone guard: Rigid part on the front of the shoe which avoids impacts with stone blocks. Also limits abrasion of the front of the shoe
The 5 types of mountain boots
Mountaineering boots which come in several categories:
Winter mountaineering and expeditions; shoes intended for temperatures below -20 ° C. Often equipped with overboots, and more or less technical depending on the model, most of them consist of a slipper that slips into the shoe. They accept crampons with automatic attachment thanks to their front and rear overhang (see paragraph on crampons).
Technical mountaineering for difficult races; rigid shoes to hold without too much effort on the supports found in vertical environments. Their rigidity allows the use of crampons with automatic attachments.
High road mountaineering and “easy” mountaineering; shoes adapted to the altitude, sometimes off-trail, with passages in snow or ice. Versatile and suitable for F to AD snow races with slopes of up to 45 °, these are mountaineering boots with high shanks and semi-rigid soles, crampons in semi-auto.
what will I do with my future mountain boots?
Then, take a shoe that you like, that corresponds to your nature as a mountain dweller: all leather or lighter materials with GTX membrane, very high or light.
Some models are very versatile and can do everything from hiking trails to Mont Blanc and slopes of 45 °. For most mountain enthusiasts, it may be interesting and sufficient to have two pairs: one for light trekking in medium mountain style (possibly mid), and a pair for high road / “easy” mountaineering with semi-auto crampon. (see paragraph on crampons). Then there are the more “technical” shoes which interest those who want to go in the hard and the cold.
Also, choose according to the massifs attended and your level of training. The less you train, the more protective the shoe should be. The lightness, always double-edged, goes more with a good level of form and “dry” mountain conditions.
Choosing the right stiffness for your mountain boots
The stiffness is mainly in the sole and is tested by trying to bend the shoe. If it twists like a sponge, it is considered very flexible. At the other extreme, if you cannot “bend” it, it is considered very stiff. The rigidity can be almost total on technical mountaineering boots, ie they can hardly be flexed, and low for minimalist hiking boots
In the mountains, a lack of rigidity on the part of the shoe will in the long run be synonymous with a lack of stability for the foot which will instinctively seek to compensate by muscular effort. So don’t hesitate to choose fairly stiff shoes if you want to test the waters. With a fit adapted to your foot, you will not suffer from a rigid shoe and you will be able to check, over the hours, that the rigidity will bring you comfort and safety.
Can shoes cause extensor tendonitis?
Many falls are unfortunately so-called “fatigue” falls which occur when the hiker is at the end of his muscular resources in the tibia/ankle area. This hyper-stressed area, when it is not sufficiently supported by a stiff, high-rise shoe, will suffer from the forces demanded by the terrain, a bit like a car in a bend with outdated suspensions. In the case of a poorly trained hiker, this fatigue can occur quickly and have significant effects.
The continuous solicitation of the foot/ankle/calf area can become a point of suffering which demands the mind and its own resources. As the mind becomes vulnerable in turn, the hiker will be less lucid and more sensitive to the difficulties of the terrain. The risk factor will therefore increase considerably.
When is it better to go for tall shoes?
Like any product, low shoes also have drawbacks, especially in the 4 situations below:
1-During mountaineering races
Often, classic mountaineering rhymes with crampons, ice ax, roping, etc. There, no qualms, we need a high shoe with a rigid sole to hold onto. Note that a simple hike on a dry glacier can be done with a high and flexible shoe, as long as you only have strap crampons. But as soon as you have to use the front points of the crampons, flexible shoes will find their limit.
2-During descents of large scree
The advantage of low shoes is that the malleolus is free. But in scree (with large boulders, not a gravel scree), it is a definite drawback: there is a risk of hitting the malleolus against the slightly too sharp angle of a rock. In this specific case, a high shoe is welcome.
3-During big trekkings with a heavy bag
If we are going on our own to a distant destination, there is a good chance that we will need specific materials (tent, sleeping bags, stove, mattresses, water, and food supplies, etc.) A 15 to 20kg bag is not uncommon. In this specific case, a semi-rigid trekking shoe will relieve our feet. Sticks will also be welcome!
4-When hiking in winter and in 30cm of fresh snow
Well, in these conditions, even with high shoes, we will need either pant with integrated gaiters, or add gaiters, and why not also opt for snowshoes.
What if it rains (a lot)?
High shoes are obviously more protective but you can also opt for a low shoe membrane in Gore-tex (GTX). Even with continuous rain, hiking in low shoes works great! Simply complete with a pair of short gaiters in case of long rains.
How to avoid having sore feet?
In a previous article devoted to the importance of putting a sole in your ski touring boot, we took the time to detail what the three types of feet were. Here they are as a reminder (source: Sidas Sport).